I left Nida behind just as the coach parties were starting this tours. Turning left I rode down the deserted road to the border. The crossing was very quiet. Just one car ahead of me, a family from Switzerland. The officials were very pleasant and wished me ‘ good luck’. The customs showed no interest at all and waved me through.
And so I was back in Russia, this time the enclave of Kaliningrad sandwiched between Lithuania and Poland.
After a few kilometres there was a stop sign on the road. I paid my 150 roubles and entered the national reserve. There was only the main road running along the spit. Every now and again there were tracks off to the sand dunes. I followed one to get sight of the coastline.
As I rode on, I realised that my side of the road would remain practically deserted, whilst the other side was getting busier as traffic poured in from the city of Kaliningrad. I decided to press on to Zelenogradsk rather than get caught in the returning traffic and come back, by bus, the next day.
After checking in to my hotel I found a super cafe overlooking the coast and chatted to two lifeguards who were having their break and eager to practice their English.